There is an island in the Canary Islands with no paved roads, where the streets are made of sand. La Graciosa, off the north of Lanzarote, is the perfect place to show a child that life can be lived without rushing. With babies and young children it is a lovely experience, as long as you go prepared. Here is how, seen through Mapi’s eyes.
Mapi says
La Graciosa has no paved roads: bare feet, sand and sea show the way. And a baby carrier works better than a pushchair.
Getting there
You arrive by ferry from Órzola, in the north of Lanzarote, in about 25 to 30 minutes. In high season it is worth booking both ways in advance. Once on the island, everything is reached on foot, by bike or in the 4×4 taxis of Caleta de Sebo, the main village.
Where to stay
With young children, the best plan is to stay overnight and not move around much. In Caleta de Sebo, Apartamentos Graciosamar has two-bedroom units for up to five people, with a kitchen and travel cot, and Apartamentos La Pardela fully equipped kitchens and the village beach just steps away. When booking, ask for a cot and a baby bath.
Beaches for little ones
Next to the harbour in Caleta de Sebo there is a calm beach, perfect for the youngest. Playa Francesa, about two kilometres from the village along a flat sandy track, is a sheltered cove with turquoise water; with babies, the easiest way is a 4×4 taxi first thing in the morning, and bring a parasol and water, as there are no facilities.
With slightly older children, the La Graciosa adventure route for kids suggests cycling to Playa Francesa, discovering Montaña Amarilla, an old ochre-coloured volcano by the sea, and going as far as Pedro Barba. Playa de las Conchas, one of the most beautiful beaches in the Canary Islands, has dangerous currents: it is for looking at, not for swimming.
Where to eat
In Caleta de Sebo, Enriqueta is the traditional eating house, with fresh local fish, seafood rice and wrinkled potatoes with mojo. El Veril, facing the harbour, is ideal for lunch as you step off the ferry, and Rosa’s La Lía, five minutes from the jetty, has tapas, seafood, homemade desserts and a terrace.
Before you go
There is almost no shade: bring a parasol or sun tent, caps and plenty of water. The streets are sand, so a baby carrier is much better than a pushchair. There are few shops, so bring the basics from Lanzarote, and in serious cases medical transfers go to Lanzarote. Babies under six months should always be in the shade. The day-by-day plan is in La Graciosa with babies in 3 days.